I’m incapable of not commenting on this stories since I’m re-reading them for the first time in over 5 years, so please bear with my 2008 comments, which I will try to remember to put in Italics, so you can identify them. I have also decided to stick to the original titles from my emails at the time, which may, at times, seem out of place.
On Friday, as had been semi-planned, I headed to Zurich to meet up with my friend Dave from Laurier, who was there visiting friends (Hi Dave!). Despite some technical difficulties getting in touch with him the day of, Aimee (American) and I decided to head out without his contact info, having left him my portable number, and (of course) having brought my portable along. Being in no rush to get moving (I wasn’t expecting to hear from Dave until the evening), we took are sweet time getting to the train sta tion in Mulhouse, stopping downtown for doner kebabs…
I’m amused to see that I called it a portable. Damn French influence. This refers to a cell phone, or (because I now waffle between 3 names, a mobile). I am happy to report that I have not picked up the amusing German name: “Handy”, but that may be because I still, after all this time, am a long way from having a conversation in German.
brief note on doner kebabs…I’d like to thank Dave (different Dave) for introducing me to doner kebabs just before I left Canada…Salim and Rachele re-introduced me to them here at a great little Turkish restaurant, and now I am totally addicted (as is Aimee now…she started later, but she’s got it worse!).
Anyhow, after doner kebabs, we strolled through Place de la Reunion (the main part of dowtown) stopping on the way for crepes. Unfortunately, it seems that my favourite crepe stand is only there on weekends, so I had to settle for a competitor. We finally made our way to the train station, but then had to wait a half hour for the next train. By 5:30 we were actually en route. We arrived in Bale, Switzerland (or so we thought) around 6:00, but Aimee noted that there were two stations in Bale, an d that we wanted the second one, as that had been the case the last time she had taken the train. I observed that I was lucky she was there, because I would have gotten off the train there, and had a long walk to the next station.
Thanks to non-French influences, I rarely still refer to Basel as Bâle when I speak English, and often wonder if it wouldn’t be worth changing the names of all cities and countries in all languages to their actual name in the countries actual language(s). A bit of a lofty idea, but the world has shrunk enough that I think it would make a lot of sense.
In a twist of irony, about ten minutes later the train started heading back in the direction of Mulhouse. We asked another traveller, and he explained that we were in Bale, France, and that you had to get off the train, cross the border on foot, and catch another train on the Swiss side to get to Zurich. I think I was more disappointed by the fact that I hadn’t actually crossed the border when I thought I had, than I was that we were heading in the wrong direction (I hadn’t heard from Dave yet anyway, so there was no rush).
We checked the schedule to see when the next train would be passing through St. Louis (the next stop) going back in the direction of Bale: 6:17. The time was now 6:17. A minute later we saw the train pass (we were almost at St Louis), and found that the next train wasn’t due until 7:03. We got off the train, and crossed to the other platform…where the sign said that the next train was due at 6:17. We hoped this meant that it had not yet arrived, but a few minutes later the signed updated itself. Aimee spent much of our wait being frustrated with herself (because had she not been there I would actually have gotten off at the right station) but I we laughed it off, and I assured her that it was just amusingly ironic, and nothing to worry about. Just before 7:00, announcements were made that the 7:03 train would be late. It finally arrived a little over 5 minutes late, and we were once again on our way towards Switzerland…just hoping that they didn’t come by to check tickets.
We finally got back to Bale, and crossed the border. I was once again disappointed (as I was when I arrived in France) that nobody checked my passport…according to my passport, I haven’t even left Canada. We got over to the Swiss side, and checked the next train…another half hour wait. We strolled around the duty free for a while to kill time and keep warm (it was colder in Switzerland than in France…you know, like the wall of snow that starts at the Canada/US border?). We finally caught our train, and even managed to get one of the more private 6-seat rooms. Unfortunately we were soon joined by another passenger, but it was still a first for me. Upon arriving in Zurich, we cruised around the train station in search of a map that might indicate where the youth hostel was. Since all the tourist booths and such were closed, we decided not to bother with the hostel and just stay up all night. After all, we would be going out with Dave anyway, plus internet reviews described it as one of the most expensi ve and yet worst of the hostels in Europe.
Fortunately, the train station had internet access (at 0,50 Swiss Francs a minute, but access nonetheless) so I was able to keep track of my email. Having nothing new from Dave, Aimee and I set out to explore Zurich, trying constantly to stay oriented relative to the train station for when Dave called. We walked around for a while, taking in the sights, and trying to remember what stores we wanted to return to in the morning when everything was open. Around 10:00 we came across a Chinese restaurant that looked good, and decided that with the money we were saving not staying in the hostel we figured we could eat well. The food there was fantastic, and we were there (much to the servers’ dismay) until they closed at 11:00. With a full stomach, but fatigue setting in (we had both shorted ourselves on sleep the night before after another night at the ESV) we headed back to the train station to check my email. Still nothing from Dave, and no phone call, so we used the online (free) tourist services to find out what bars and such were open latest so we knew where we could hang out. With some research we found a street where there seemed to be at least of few that were open until 2:00 or later, so we set off to find it. It ended up being even better then we thought, being full of bars, pubs and dessert-type restaurants. When we heard Beach Boys playing at one bar, we decided we’d found our first stop. I noticed Sangria on the drink menu, and though we decided to avoid alcohol for the night, I haven’t had that since Dave, Kim and Brendan introduced me to it in Montreal shortly before I left (thanks guys!), so it seemed like a safe bet. Unfortunately it was nothing like the ones we had in Montreal. We took our time, listening to a very interesting mix of music, and eventually left in search of another place to pass some time.
First we did some more exploring, walking farther up the pedestrian street we were on, and back down. We were overjoyed to find a candy store that sold Dr. Pepper (a favourite of both Aimee and neither of us have seen since we left North America) and made a mental note to come back in the morning. After a while (around 3:00), we tired more and stopped at a restaurant that was open until 4:00 for some apple strudel. It took us no time to finish it off, but we were both struggling to keep ou r eyes open. We headed back to the train station to check my email again, and ponder how we were going to stay awake. With still no word from Dave, we gave up, but having nowhere else to go, decided to tour the rather large, sprawling train station. Unfortunately (and perhaps to prevent what we were doing) it was as cold in the train station (on all three levels) as it was outside…about -15. We would sit down for a while, but soon had to get up and move around to warm up. We discussed how lucky we we re to have extra clothes, and imagined what it would be like to live like that.
There weren’t too many people around the station, but we felt quite safe seeing the troop of security guards pass regularly (while they probably wondered what we were doing there). Since trains run constantly in and out of that station there’s was always somebody to watch, or something to think about. Around 5:00 we ducked into a photo booth, and for some unexplicable reason (okay, it can be easily explained by our exhausted state of mind) we got 16 identical photos of ourselves. To try to just ify it, the photo booths here don’t allow seperate poses for each frame, and they all come in a square; you just choose between 16 tiny photos or 4 regular photo booth size photos…I just can’t justify why we opted for 16…
After that, we found a painted wooden bench (unlike the wire benches every where else), in a corner that seemed slightly warmer than the others, and decided to wait there, as there was a Marche Lino nearby that would open at 6:30…our planned breakfast. We settled down and wrote the postcards we had bought, and just generally tried to stay awake.
Around 6:00 we heard someone singing an American song (although to this day neither can remember what song it was) as he came around the corner. A tall, rather handsome, guy came around the corner, Smirnoff Ice in hand, and stopped, obviously surprised to see us. He said something to us (presumably in Swiss German) and we looked at him dumbfounded, shaking our heads. He then asked “English? Francais? Espanola?” at which point we stopped him to say English. His English was actually quite good, and we conversed easily. He asked where we were from, and we told him, US and Canada. We continued to speak for a little while, and he started talking how nice and warm his coat was, and tried to remember what it was made of. At this point, he looked at me and apologized because “I do not speak Canadian.” Wow. Ignorance really is bliss.
At least to drunk Swiss guys.
Anyway, he dug through his inside coat pockets, pulling out sunglasses, keys (apparently to his 5 star hotel) and a few other items, before finally finding what he was looking for; the tag for his coat. He ripped it out, and read to us what it was made of. He then tried to make a mental note of the washing instructions, before leaving the tag on the table. At this point, he realized that the friend he was with had still not caught up. He told us that his friend was a model for Versace (“do you know Versace?”) and that he was a model for…this…pointing at the Gucci logo on his sunglasses. Okay, yes he was drunk, and perhaps completely full of himself, but he could easily have been a Gucci model; he definitely had “the look”. He invited us for coffee and a chocolate croissant at the cafe that we were sitting next to, which would open at 7:00. He told us that he would pay, and that if we did not show up, he would never forget it. My guess is that he had forgotten about it the minute he walked away.
Finally 6:45 rolled around, and, after walking around a bit more, we headed to the Marche Lino for what would be a small but expensive (and delicious) breakfast. Unfortunately we were faced with our first major language barrier (up to that point everyone we met spoke English – although not French which I thought odd for Switzerland) when Aimee tried to order an omelette. Fortunately, another employee spoke some English and we were able to sort it out. We stayed in the warmth of the Marche for quite some time, before again braving the cold, but excited about the prospect of seeing the sun.
I have since heard that the German-speaking Swiss often refuse obstinately to learn French, and the French-speaking Swiss refuse obstinately to learn German, but I don’t know how much truth there is to that, and it doesn’t even take into consideration the Italian- and Romansh-speaking Swiss.
We headed out the first exit we found, and decided to walk around the outside of the station (we’d been inside it long enough) until we found the main street where all the stores we wanted to visit were. Unfortunately this resulted in us getting quite lost, although, as Aimee pointed out “We’re not lost, but we can see it from here.” With some luck, and what logic we were still capable of, we found the train station again, but were completely confused as to why we could not find the main street; we had s uccessfully toured the outside of the entire station, but somehow missed it. We finally figured out that where we had come out was one small block from where we had wanted to be, but having not been there before, we had no idea, and had headed in the opposite direction. We located Swatch (so Aimee could buy her sister a watch) and a bakery to find the pretzel croissant things that I had tried at the Marche and fallen in love with (sadly the ones I bought at the bakery weren’t as good).
It was now around 10:30am, so I thought Dave might have tried emailing, so we made yet another trip back to the station. With no new messages from him, and no energy, we decided to catch the next train home; 11:09. I found a post office, send my cards, and we hopped on the train. Within 15 minutes we were both fast asleep, waking just before we reached Bale. We crossed back across the border, and hopped on a train (that was leaving within just a few minutes) for Mulhouse. Around St. Louis, my phone beeped, telling me I had 3 new messages. It was then that my fear was confirmed; my phone didn’t get service in Switzerland (although friends of mine had had no trouble in the past…apparently I had to sign up for that in addition…). Sure enough, Dave had called at 9:00pm, 10:00pm and 11:25am. In his last message, he said he would try emailing. If we had just missed the train, or remember to go to any of the stores we had so wanted to the night before, we would have actually caug ht him. I gave him a quick call to explain the situation, but it was too late to do anything about it. Nonetheless, it was an adventure.
Upon arriving home, I was up for a few minutes, being generally angry about the situation, before I finally went for a nap around 2:30…it was the best sleep I’ve had since I got to Europe. At 7:30 I got up, and we made plans to go out. At 9:25pm, Aimee and I were startled by my room shaking. We soon realized that we had both just experienced our first earthquake. When we got to O’Bryan’s, friends that we were meeting there expressed their disappointment that they hadn’t felt it. I was a little worried about the stability of Batiment A, but we passed a good evening nonetheless. I’ve since heard that the only place that there was any real concern was an apartment building in Colmar that had to be evacuated, although apparently the earthquake was felt over an unusually large area.
The next day was Sunday; rugby day. Although they play every weekend (every other weekend in Mulhouse) I hadn’t been to a match since the first one, so a few of us decided to head over. It was a good match; the score was closer, and the weather was absolutely beautiful (Mulhouse was about 20 degrees warmer than Zurich). The post game party was much quieter, but a few of us still made it to the Salsa Cafe for dinner. (The Salsa Cafe is one of the team sponsors). The food was absolutely delicious, and we h ad a good time, but called it a night early.
Last night (Monday) we finally made it back to Murphy’s; the bar they took me to the night I arrived, that I had been unable to find, or convince people to go to since. It was a quiet night, but I am finally getting the opportunity to integrate my French friends with my other foreign friends, and we had a good time. The latest crush of one of my foreign friends also showed up unexpectedly, so it was a good night for all.
Well, I’ve probably forgotten other amusing parts of my trip (I can’t even begin to explain how tired we were), but the trip there and the Gucci model were the bits that will always stick out most in my mind.
Now, to follow up on a couple of things…
The window things are apparently a precaution put in place since the second world war (thanks Sammi)…I find it even funnier then that Batiment A doesn’t have them…it’s old and decrepit, but it’s not that old! I guess they don’t worry too much about the people that are willing to live in such buildings
And as to energy efficiency, the Swiss aren’t too dumb either…they don’t even bother to heat the train station (okay, that comment was made purely out of bitterness) but more interestingly, the escalators in the train station shut off when not in use, and turn on again when someone steps on the metal section at the bottom (on an up escalator) or the top (on a down escalator).
And, photos; I have started working on a geocities (yahoo) site, but am currently having difficulties because I don’t speak HTML, and the computers here are set up so I can’t download the tool that would allow me to set it up without knowing HTML. A friend has offered the use of his computer, but I don’t see him often, and I don’t feel right just calling him up to ask a favour. I am currently working on minimizing file sizes so I can get all the photos uploaded to the site itself, but the real barrier is getting them from the back-end of the site to the actually page.
So, that’s the latest…I’m currently on vacation, which is nice, with another 2 weeks vacation coming up at Easter (I love Europe). Now that I’ve finally got this story out, I will try to respond to all these emails I’ve been getting over the past week. Sorry ’bout the delay! It is fantastic to hear from you though; I love knowing what’s going on back home…in particular hearing about the snow storm made me smile (since it’s about 15 degrees today and gorgeous!). Yeah, I know I’m a jerk, but somet hing’s got to make up for freezing my butt off at the Zurich train station!
I miss you guys lots!
ps. I’ve actually really adapted to being called Ezzere; I think I’ll even miss it!
Ezzere, I later realized, isn’t quite the way most people pronounce it (although some do), I’m more commonly Ezzeur, but also Haeter (particularly with real Alsatans), Header (ok, I only got that once, at least in writing, from a Spanish client: so my partner in crime on that project agreed to be Footer), and many more that I cannot even begin to try spelling.